Imagine 2 climbers with equal strengths and abilities:
Climber A
Climber A finds something they are good at, let’s say crimping, over the course of the first few years progress comes fast, they never learn to climb on slopers because they can climb lesser grades on slopers than they can on crimpy climbs, they become a specialist, continually chasing the next grade they follow what comes naturally, climbing 2 grades harder on crimps make this seem like the shortest path to climbing the next grade up from what they have currently climbed.
Climber B
Climber B climbs everything, in every style. Progress is slower at the start because they are working on a multitude of different styles, techniques and hold types, they climb even grades across all wall angles and hold types, this approach over the long term has the potential to leave less gaps in movement skills, a more well rounded climber. They are adaptable.
At some point in gym resets there won’t be a crimpy hard climb to work on, meaning climber A will have to go back a few grades to continue to climb, Climber B will be able to project the harder climbs because they have the skillset.
Early specialisation is great for short term progress but if we want long term progress variety and deliberate practice is essential. There will be a wider variety of “cool” problems to solve.
This problem can be stopped before it even begins by following a few principles below.
Chase the uncomfortable
Spend as much time if not more doing things that feel uncomfortable as you spend doing the things that you love to do. Prioritise time in your lesser strengths.
2. Variety
If you hangboard, test yourself on a variety of hangs and spend time catching the weaknesses up to the strengths, for example if your half crimp is + 50 kg, test your full crimp and 4 finger open hand as well, if these are significantly lagging behind then you will get more benefit from closing the gap than you will putting more time into training half crimp.
